Giants’ tombs, nuraghi, and even a megaron temple: in September and October, immerse yourself in the millennia-old past of Northern Sardinia.
When one thinks of Gallura, the first image that probably comes to mind is that of its dreamy beaches, lapped by crystal-clear waters. But if you venture a little further inland, you’ll discover a completely different side of this Sardinian land, full of ancient stories, majestic monuments, and unsolved mysteries. Here, amidst giants’ tombs, nuraghi, and mysterious archaeological sites, you can breathe in the magnificence of a millennia-old past.
The charm of Gallura’s megalithism
Walking through the hills just beyond the Gallura coast, among characteristic Vermentino vineyards, you’ll encounter true stone giants, a testimony to a distant era. These are monuments of megalithism, a phenomenon that left an indelible mark on this part of the island.
Imagine: from the first half of the 4th millennium BC, the ancient inhabitants of these lands engaged in the art of building stone structures, without the help of modern technology. This is evidenced by the oldest archaeological site in the municipality of Arzachena, the necropolis of Li Muri, also known as the ‘circle tombs’. This funerary circle consisted of a series of concentric stone circles that supported an earthen mound, with a small square stone chamber, called a cist, at the centre, where the deceased was laid to rest.
Must-see places: La Prisgiona and Coddu Ecchju
Another unmissable stop for those wanting to immerse themselves in Gallura’s ancient history is the La Prisgiona nuragic complex, located on a hill in the Capichera valley in Arzachena. Composed of a central tower flanked by two smaller towers and around a hundred huts distributed around it, this site allowed control of a vast territory and served as a political, economic, and social hub for the area.
Not far away lies the Coddu Ecchju Giants’ Tomb, which is perfectly preserved and features a rectangular corridor dolmen and an exedra made with large stone slabs planted in the ground. The imposing arched stele, standing 4 metres tall, is the highest found so far in Sardinia.
Archaeologists have still not solved all the mysteries surrounding these monuments. How were those gigantic stone blocks worked? And, above all, what was their true meaning? These are questions that continue to intrigue anyone who ventures among these imposing testimonies of a distant past.
Malchittu Temple
For those wanting to combine physical activity with culture, a visit to the Malchittu Temple, located about 2 kilometres from Arzachena, is paired with a pleasant 25-minute walk through the countryside, among large holm oaks that provide shade along the way. The hike also offers the opportunity to discover the tafoni, or “conchi” in Gallurese, rock cavities typical of Gallura, formed by water and wind erosion, which were used in prehistoric times as dwellings or burial places. At the end of the climb, you’ll find yourself in front of the oldest megaron temple currently known in Sardinia, built around 1600 BC.
Inside the main chamber, which is slightly rounded in shape, it is possible to see the remains of benches and niches where offerings were probably placed, as well as seats where people admitted to witness the rituals were seated.
This is a place rich in charm and mystery that will leave you filled with wonder, not only for the sacredness of the site but also for its excellent condition.
